Gijón in winter: storm-watching, culture and cosy cider houses

Winter is the season locals keep for themselves: fewer visitors, kinder prices, a cultural calendar in full swing and a Bay of Biscay that turns into a show when the storms roll in. If you do not mind a little rain, it is a great time to see Gijón as it really is. Here are the best things to do, from the coast to the table.

Tip: in December and January it gets dark at around 6 pm. Keep outdoor walks for the middle of the day and save museums, theatre and cider houses for later.

1. Watch a storm from the promenade

Nothing says Gijón winter like waves leaping over the San Lorenzo promenade at high tide during a heavy swell. Watch from a safe distance: on warning days sections of the promenade are closed, and you should always follow instructions. The view from San Pedro church or Santa Catalina hill is just as dramatic and much safer.

2. Walk San Lorenzo beach at low tide

When the tide goes out, San Lorenzo beach becomes a vast expanse of sand shared by walkers, runners and dogs (in the off-season dogs are allowed between stairways 2 and 8, according to council rules). Check the tide tables before you go.

3. Climb to the Elogio del Horizonte

Santa Catalina hill and the Elogio del Horizonte are even better in winter: dramatic skies, few people and the wind roaring inside Chillida’s sculpture. Wrap up warm, as it is exposed up there.

4. Walk the Cervigón coastal path

From El Rinconín, at the far end of San Lorenzo, a coastal path heads towards Cervigón and La Providencia: cliffs, meadows and views back over the city. Perfect on a clear winter day. More routes in Gijón coastal path.

5. Museums without the queues

Winter is museum season. The municipal network includes the Roman baths of Campo Valdés, Jovellanos’s birthplace, the Asturias Railway Museum and the Museum of the Asturian People. Many close on Mondays; check times on gijon.es. Overview in museums in Gijón.

6. The Laboral, the Botanical Garden and the aquarium

The Laboral City of Culture is a superb visit in any season, and the aquarium is a safe bet in the rain. The Atlantic Botanical Garden is at its most understated in winter, with the damp, mossy woodland at its best. Check winter opening hours before you go.

7. Hearty food in a cider house

Fabada (bean and sausage stew), pote asturiano (cabbage and bean broth), cachopo, monkfish… Winter is the season for rib-sticking Asturian cooking, and a sidrería, noisy and warm, with cider poured from on high, is the best refuge on a wet afternoon. Ideas in what to eat in Gijón and our cider guide.

8. Winter surfing

Gijón’s best waves arrive with the autumn and winter low-pressure systems. If you already surf, this is your season; if you are a beginner, ask a surf school which days are suitable, as the sea can be demanding. A thick wetsuit is essential. Everything in surfing in Gijón.

9. Film, theatre and music

The Gijón International Film Festival (FICX) is usually held in November, with screenings all over the city. Throughout the winter, the Teatro Jovellanos and the Laboral keep up a programme of theatre, dance and music.

10. Christmas and the Three Kings

Lights, a Christmas market, shopping and the parade on 5 January. It is all in Christmas in Gijón.

11. Antroxu, the carnival

In February or March, depending on the calendar, Gijón celebrates Antroxu, its carnival: a parade, a contest of satirical street bands (charangas) and plenty of fancy dress despite the cold.

12. A trip inland

A grey day on the coast can be ideal for Oviedo, the regional capital, with its old town and museums. If you fancy the mountains, such as Covadonga, check road conditions first: in winter there can be snow or ice at altitude.

What to pack and how to plan

• Clothing: layers, a hooded waterproof and shoes that can cope with rain. Umbrellas suffer in the wind.
• Weather: mild temperatures but changeable. Check the forecast daily and read weather and best time to visit.
• Always have a plan B: keep our rainy day in Gijón ideas handy.
• Accommodation: it is low season, with more choice and better prices except at Christmas and bank holidays. See where to stay.