For many Asturians, Covadonga is the symbolic heart of the region: this is where tradition places the battle of 722 that marks the beginning of the Kingdom of Asturias, and with it, the story of Christian Spain’s “Reconquista”. A few kilometres higher, inside the Picos de Europa National Park, the glacial lakes of Enol and Ercina sit among high pastures and limestone peaks. From Gijón it is a full-day trip, and one worth planning carefully because of the regulated access to the lakes.
What to see
The Royal Site of Covadonga
- The Holy Cave (Santa Cueva): a grotto in the rock face above a waterfall, where the Virgin of Covadonga – affectionately known as la Santina – is venerated, and where the tomb attributed to King Pelayo lies. One of the most photographed spots in Asturias.
- The Basilica of Santa María la Real: a late 19th-century neo-Romanesque church built of pink limestone, standing out against the green valley.
- The esplanade, the statue of Pelayo and the shrine’s museum, beside the basilica.
The Covadonga Lakes
- Lake Enol and Lake Ercina, both of glacial origin, linked by an easy circular walk that is delightful in good weather.
- Mirador de la Reina, a viewpoint on the road up, with views towards the coast on clear days.
- The old Buferrera mines, with an interpretive trail and viewpoints.
- Cows, horses and sheep grazing freely: give them space and do not feed them.
Cangas de Onís
The first capital of the Kingdom of Asturias, a few kilometres from Covadonga. Its famous medieval bridge over the river Sella (locally called the “Roman bridge”, although it is medieval) and the tiny Santa Cruz chapel are worth a stop. It is also where the lakes buses start.
Getting there from Gijón
By car: take the Cantabrian motorway (A-8) east, then head via Arriondas to Cangas de Onís and Covadonga. Allow a little over an hour to Cangas de Onís, depending on traffic.
By public transport: regional buses run from Gijón to Cangas de Onís (timetables on alsa.es). From Cangas, a shuttle runs to Covadonga and the lakes bus climbs to Enol and Ercina. It is doable, but means an early start and keeping an eye on connections.
You can also join an organised excursion from Gijón: see our tours and activities page.
Regulated access to the Lakes (2026)
To protect the park and prevent gridlock, on certain dates private cars are banned from the lakes road all day and access is by bus only. 2026 details published by Turismo Asturias:
- Remaining dates in 2026: 31 October, 1 and 2 November, and 1 to 8 December. Earlier in the year, restrictions also applied at Easter, on May weekends and for most of the summer (1 June to 18 October, with some exceptions).
- Where to catch the bus: Cangas de Onís bus station and the El Bosque, Muñigu, El Repelao and El Peregrino (Covadonga) car parks. Each line only stops at its own stops.
- Timetable from 1 October to 8 December: first bus at 8:00, last bus up at 16:00 and last bus down at 19:05.
- Fares: adults €9, children aged 4–11 €3.50, under-3s free. Park-and-ride: €3 per vehicle per day.
- Tickets: buy online in advance; they are only sold at the car parks if seats remain.
Always check the latest information on the official lakes access page, as the calendar changes every year.
Tip: on the busiest days the car parks fill up and waits can be long. Arrive early with your ticket already booked.
How long to spend, and a suggested day
- Morning: arrive early in Cangas de Onís or at a park-and-ride and head up to the lakes, when there are fewer people and a better chance of clear skies.
- Midday: walk the Enol–Ercina circuit and have lunch (bring a picnic, or eat in Cangas on the way down).
- Afternoon: the Holy Cave and Basilica of Covadonga, then a stroll around Cangas de Onís before heading back to Gijón.
With more time, add Ribadesella or other ideas from our guide to day trips from Gijón.
Practical tips
- Clothing: the lakes are over 1,000 metres above sea level and the weather turns quickly. Bring a warm layer, a waterproof and closed shoes even if it is sunny in Gijón. Our page on the weather in Gijón will help you pack.
- Fog: very common. If the forecast is poor, consider another day or an alternative such as Oviedo.
- Respect the park: stay on marked paths, take your litter home and leave the livestock alone.
- The shrine: Covadonga is an active place of worship; be respectful during services and keep quiet in the Holy Cave.
Frequently asked questions
Can I drive to the Covadonga lakes?
Only on days without restrictions. On regulated-access days private cars cannot drive up at any time of day and you must take the lakes bus. For the rest of 2026, restrictions apply on 31 October, 1–2 November and 1–8 December, according to Turismo Asturias. Always check the official calendar.
How much is the bus to the Covadonga lakes?
According to Turismo Asturias, in 2026 an adult ticket costs €9 (same-day return), €3.50 for children aged 4 to 11 and is free for under-3s. The park-and-ride car parks cost €3 per vehicle per day. Buy your ticket online in advance.
How long do I need for Covadonga and the lakes?
A full day from Gijón. Allow at least half a morning for the shrine and Cangas de Onís, and three to four hours at the lakes if you want to walk the circuit between Enol and Ercina at a relaxed pace.
Is there a direct bus from Gijón to Covadonga?
The usual route is a regional bus from Gijón to Cangas de Onís, then the shuttle to Covadonga or the lakes bus. Check ALSA timetables for the Gijón–Cangas de Onís leg.
What is the weather like at the Covadonga lakes?
Much cooler and more changeable than in Gijón: the lakes are over 1,000 metres up and fog can roll in within minutes. Always pack a warm layer and a waterproof, even in summer.
Sources
- Turismo Asturias – Access to the Covadonga Lakes — 28 October 2026
- Turismo Asturias – From Cangas de Onís: excursion to the Lakes and the Royal Site of Covadonga — 28 October 2026
- ALSA – Destinations — 28 October 2026
